Print Room & Framing Blog
Signing your Prints
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When should you sign your prints?
Signing a printed photo or artwork can be an integral part of the creative process. It marks the completion of your work. Are you going to sell it? Is it a gift? Do you plan on locking it away to never see the light of day again? It doesn’t matter: if you ask anyone at Orms, we’d say an original artwork should always be signed.
Consider signing yours, because you made it. Consistency in editions and signing also conveys trust to any potential collectors.
Understandably, signing any original work can lead to some nervousness. You are branding your work; you are forever binding the print to your identity. So, where do you sign, and what is the right way to do it?
What information should you include?
Signing can also indicate important information about you and your work. Here you can decide what information to display with the work. If you cannot decide what information to include, ask yourself the following questions:
- Do I want to add my signature, initials, or full name to the print?
- Is the title important, and does it add insight or value to the work?
- Will the work be part of an editioned series?
- What year was the artwork created?
Open vs. Limited Edition Works
An editioned work is a copy or reproduction of an artwork created from a master (original artwork). Before signing your first work, it is up to you as the artist to decide how many editions you want to produce of each work (i.e., limited or open). Always keep track of your edition numbers!
An open editioned work can be printed multiple times, and can extend to different substrates.
Where do I sign?
The general rule of signing is usually as follows:
Editioned works
Left: Edition Number Middle: Title Right: Initial/Signature and/or Date
Open Editions
Left: Optional Title Right: Initial/Signature and/or Date
Consider scanning some of your original artworks and make your own editioned prints.
Speak to one of our consultants for more information.
How to Sign Your Artwork
This can differ, depending on how your work will be mounted and/or framed. Take this into account when you print your artwork and remember to ask for a weighted border when placing your print order.
Speak to one of our expert consultants before printing if you are not sure where your details would be displayed best. In the meantime, practice your signature, and remember your signature should never detract from the work itself.
Works can be signed on the back, but it is not advisable as it causes framing restrictions.
Tools of the Trade
Different artworks and substrates call for different signing techniques.
Pencils
Pencils come in different lead grades which affect the strength of the marks they make. We recommend using a soft pencil like a 6B on uncoated matt art papers such as Epson Enhanced Matt, Felix Schoeller True Fibre Matt, Epson Watercolour, Hahnemhule German Etching, and Hahnemuhle Photorag Paper.
- A hard lead may be too faint and can damage the paper. We recommend 6B.
- Signing in pencil is preferred by collectors because it is not easily forged.
- Pencil doesn’t detract from the work.
- It leaves a unique mark.
- Pencil is fade-proof/archival.
Archival Pens
Pens are used when signing a coated paper print. Coated papers include Hahnemuhle Baryta, Premium Satin, Fuji Matt, Fuji Metallic Gloss and Black and White Ilford Fibre Based Paper.
These pens are available in variable thicknesses and since they are archival, they are also fade-resistant.
We recommend ‘Pigma Micron pens’, which can be purchased from ArtSauce our neighbouring art supplies store.
Markers
If you are not printing your artwork on paper and using a substrate like Canvas, Metal or Acrylic instead, it can be a challenge to sign on these mediums since they are not porous.
In these instances, we recommend either adding your signature digitally, or using a marker that is fast drying and fade-resistant like an Artline marker.
Debossing Stamp
Don’t like your signature? Maybe you have multiple prints to sign and want to add an extra bit of charm?
Order your own hand de-bossing stamp and add your seal of approval in the form of a stamp to your artwork. Some experimentation may be required depending on the various different paper types we offer. Order your stamp via Trodat.
Let’s Get Down to Business
Make sure that you have an off-cut handy. This must be the same paper-type that your work is printed on. This is for testing. You can test your pencil/pen by doing the following:
- Make sure that your pencil’s edge is soft and not too sharp. You don’t want to accidentally pierce the paper. If you are leaving an impression on the back of the paper, you are pressing too hard.
- Get a feel for the paper. Does your hand glide easily over the paper?
- Test your signature and make sure it is proportional to the image: not too small and not too overpowering.
You are ready, young grasshopper
A paper guide/strip is used to determine the middle-point of your artwork. Place the strip over the bottom edge of your printed work, about 50mm above the ink line. Your guide can be used to carefully grip your print without physically touching the ink on the paper. Careful, do not move this strip from side to side, as it can damage the ink on the paper.
Do’s
- Always wear a glove on the hand that is not signing the print.
- Practice makes perfect, test your initial or signature first.
- Keep track of your editions!
- Remember to sign the print in line with the image.
- It’s ok to check the spelling before signing. Better safe than sorry!
Don’ts
- Don’t use a regular pen to sign your work. Most inks are not archival and can damage the paper over time. In some cases, inks can even disappear.
- Don’t package your print before the ink is completely dry.
- Erase pencil and try and write over it. This will take off the top-coating of the paper, hence the fact that testing is important.
- Don’t sign on the mount board. This can be removed over time.
Most importantly, remember that our consultants are here to make this process easier for you.
